About Diamond Blades
1. Never twist or turn a segmented wheel in the cut because it may result in segment breakage
2. Never use wet wheel dry
3. Remove dry wheel from cut for 10 seconds of each minute of to cut air cool
4. Never operate any saw, wet or dry, without the blade guard
About Fiber Disc
For best results.allow adhesive to set until tacky before applying disc.
About Sharpening Stone
1. Choose one or a sequence of benchstones to restore a cutting edge
- Use oil
• For best benchstone performance to keep stones free cutting, with no loading or gumming, use stones with oil.
• If stones do gum-up or load, clean with kerosene.
- Use of stones on flat tools
• Flat-bladed tools require flat stones. All benchstones (except diamond) can be flattened by rubbing on waterproof sandpaper against a flat surface.
- Use of stones on round or shaped tool
• Shaped tools require shaped stones.
• Select an appropriately-shaped abrasive file or slip.
- Maintain correct tool edge bevel angle
• Many knives and tools have 2 bevels:
- The blade bevel (the back of the edge), once correctly set, is seldom sharpened.
- The edge bevel does the cutting – and requires sharpening to 15 to 20 degrees.
- Too acute an edge bevel will weaken, dull quickly and breakdown.
- Too obtuse edge bevel will not cut properly.
- The final step
• Sharpening often leads to a minute burr (wire edge) on the tool.
• Remove this by "stropping" the tool on leather or hard wood for the best cutting edge.
2. Knives and Blades
Most manufacturers ship their cutting tools without keen edges to avoid damage in transit. The blades need a good sharpening to realize their full potential. Use the largest stone affordable for a straight edge as it allows use of full surface for wider tools.
1). Place the heel of the blade flat on the stone in a perpendicular or slightly angled position.
2). Tilt the back of the blade up to the desired angle (15° to 30° depending on the application: 15° for filet knives, 23° for kitchen or pocket knives, and 30° for cleavers).
3). Holding wrists rigid, draw the blade diagonally against the surface for the length of the stone – like you were trying to take a thin slice of the stone – beginning at the heel of the knife and ending at the top.
4). Flip the blade over and repeat from the opposite end. Continue this action until a wire edge appears.
5). Then move to the next finer stone and repeat until sufficiently sharp.
Note: It is very important that the angle presented to the stone at the draw blade across. Push in opposite beginning of the process be maintained throughout the sequence.
3. Sharpness Testing – Woodworking Tools
The first way to tell is visual; a sharp edge reflects no light. Once this is done, it is recommended that the tool be tested by slicing down on an end grain of soft pine. If the end grain is ragged, the tool is not sharp enough. If there are only scratches on the end grain, tiny fragments of the wire edge may be left and continued polishing is needed. A truly sharp blade will leave a cut on the end grain that looks almost burnished.